They give security, they're elegant and they can be transgressive. Although the pandemic and telecommuting have relaxed the way they dress, ties are the male complement par excellence. We gathered some of their defenders together.

The turn of the Millennium brought with it new businesses that developed a different type of work. Those early start ups were dedicated to new technologies and used a different, more creative, digital language that, in turn, entailed more relaxed dress codes. An informal look that even big companies like Goldman Sachs were forced to emulate in their casual Fridays. On Fridays you could go to work in a more trendy way.

The suit and tie remained in the closet giving way to a stylist previously reserved for days off. Two decades have passed and, although it is true that today the tie has been practically reserved for banking and the legal profession, it remains an essential male complement, although not necessarily to go to work. Because if something brings this little piece of fabric, above all, distinction and a touch of undeniable elegance.

It was Hermès the firm that placed it back in 1949, when it presented its first model. In Cannes, many gentlemen, who were banned from entering the casino for not wearing the required tie, went to the nearby maison store. To respond to the demand, the brand embarked on the production of this silk accessory, which became a basic element of the male closet.

And, although silk is its star fabric for the brand, today this accessory has its variants in wool or cashmere, so that it can dress not only in events but also in daily life. Christophe Goineau, creative director of the silk accessories of the French house, assures that today they have a younger generation of customers, since the oldest one now does not want to wear a tie because in her time it was an obligation. "they try to be different and look for something specific, not like their parents or their bosses wearing a tie because they had to," he says.

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Spread in sales

It is precisely this obligation, both in school and in certain jobs, which has caused sales of this supplement to have fallen considerably in recent years.

According to Carlos Satrústegui, director of Corbatas Lester, "the pandemic, and the more relaxed style of dressing as a result of telecommuting," has also not favoured its use more recently. But he defends that he can be carried away in a thousand ways. "it's not a blue marine suit, a white shirt and a tie, like when our parents went to school. You can wear it in a vest or a beak sweater...", he says.

Other men in charge of male fashion firms also declare themselves authentic advocates of the tie and the value it brings to the image. "in many cases, it gives security. In others, it harbors, as in winter, a good wool tie or cashmere. But, in general, they bring sobriety, elegance and everything makes sense if we want to be more formal. Man is distinguished by his shoes and his tie, and it is good to see a good knot and a beautiful silk tie printed," says Enrique Solis, creator of the Seëlk. You should never wear a suit without a tie. "it's something that the Anglo-Saxon countries have become fashionable and it's a shame. It doesn't make any sense and it's something that was very badly seen in Spain," says Pelayo Olazábal, owner of Fulham, who continues, "in the last four years demand has fallen a lot, but it will come back." Fashions are like that.

Hermès 's "command"

The French house marked a before and an after in the tie universe. Their designs brought color and bold prints that were out of the norm. Made in silk (most of them), they are stamped, sewn and folded by hand. They remain faithful to the more traditional French cut with which they were launched in the middle of the 20th century and only a couple dozen different designs are marketed that are never repeated. For a decade Christophe Goineau has been the creative director of male silk and, therefore, the "mandamás" as far as the fabrics of ties are concerned. He decides what they're going to be like (and the weavers) every new season. A fashion lover and faithful to Hermès for 30 years (when he started working for the maison), he claims that there are no rules for him to wear a tie. He often tells that he likes to open the closet, select a shirt, and with his eyes closed, take a tie. Thus he has discovered unthinkable combinations that are excellent.