The great crises have brought deep changes in popular culture;Fashion has not escaped this reality.Events such as World War I or the Spanish influenza introduced changes such as veils, the era of jazz and oxford pants.Since the Coronavirus dominates the agenda and, why not, the daily routine, designers, parades and textile organizers have adjusted their activity to the "new normality".
According to data from the Argentine Confederation of the Medium Enterprises, the interannual fall of sales for August was 32%.Meanwhile, a report by the Pro Tequjer Foundation, issued in June, showed a fall of 38.9%.In spite.
For their part, the organizers of events that moved around the textile and fashion industry also do not spend their best days.Without the possibility of celebrating mass parades or public presentations, many have had to look for friendly formats with social networks and digitalization.However, several outsourced service providers who participated in logistics, sound, photography and staging suffer from the total paralysis of their work.
Meanwhile, every day we continue choosing our clothing to face the day.The chin has become a mandatory part of our outfits and, why not, a good opportunity for some textiles that began producing them.We ask several Rosario referents of the item how we will be dressed in this situation and collect their answers.What will post-pandemic fashion be like?
In an article entitled "The End of Modernity" (the end of modernity), by Luke Leitch, a journalist of the British weekly The Economist, it is proposed that the concept we had fashionable is in the process of disappearance.While for Baudelaire, fashion was “the modern sampling hall by the eternal itinerar of the new”, the covid and social distancing have left us without halls and with a slower fashion.
The sales of the textile sector were well below the expected and many brands and merchants were left with much of the season stock they had prepared.Currently, with the ending season finished, several specialists agree that the spring-summer collection will be marked by a smaller amount of products.
"We were lousy," said Oscar Fernández Fini, who has been involved with the world of media and fashion for years, and which had launched in 2018 his own clothing brand, Las Loras.“Half of the products were enclaustrated, while a lot of merchandise that had to reach certain provinces, did not get it.This led us to have to sell through the Internet, ”he said.
The proximity between the beginning of the quarantine and the launch of the winter season was a blow to the chin for shops.“I think what remains here will be to review this approach.The seasons were too short and what is produced, you have to hang it on the stained glass, ”said Luciana“ Luli ”Pareti, founder of the blog“ The Ropero Off ”.In fact, a report prepared by scope.com, he argues that even today garments are still being liquidated last season.
Fernández Fini coincided with this position and added that the most possible is that the production is reduced.“Many brands that made series of up to one hundred products, will now make small capsules of ten.Once they evaluate performance, they can increase production accordingly ”.
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On the other hand, given the few sales of the autumn-winter season and the withdrawal of several brands that decided not to release their production, the specialists anticipate that possibly in 2021 the same is sold as in 2020.
The great catwalks of the world could not deliver their shows in the usual format.The pandemia prevented the agglomerations of people, so those events that mobilized thousands of people have been a thing of the past.Many have had online reversions, but with less impact and impact.An article from the Magazine 1843 of The Economist exposes the theory that it is difficult to feel impressed without the contact of other people."It's like trying to predict the course of a heart.You have to swim with others, feel the current, ”he argues.
The Blog Rosarino Viva La fashion recently published a note in which it argues that achieving a human connection through a screen is much more difficult than doing it in person.According to the writing "the digital world has been a rapid and effective response to this sudden crisis, but it does not seem to be permanent replacement".
Gustavo Yanczewski was the general coordinator of Fashion Week in Rosario in 2019.At the time, it was attended by 21 emerging Rosario designers.In addition, it attracted thirty brands that sponsored the activity.Thirty models from local agencies showed the outfits over 1500 passed through the catwalk.During the activity, five Make-up teams and another five hairdressing worked.
"The organization of events will be one of the sectors that will have to wait for the most," he said.As described, it is a segment in which many actors are outsourced as suppliers, sound companies, security, receptionists, fence, logistics, among others.
As for the impact of the catwalk on the fashion industry, he commented: “The catwalk is the reflection of an industry that is very affected.For the event to be given, there must be a collection ".He also explained: “The reality is that what is proposed as the fashion of the world, here there is an Argentinization of trends and very little arrives.The colors that come "were already marked".
With campaigns that will last a little more than the accustomed, consumers seriously affected by the economic crisis and without events, it is expected that the way we dress have to change.Our interviewees agree that most of the transactions were located in items such as sportswear or casual.“We were accustomed to selling the clothes that people don't need;the one that is used more for pleasure or for special events, ”said Yanczewski.According to the organizer of the Fashion Week, "summer collections lacking shine, opaque, which, at some point, reflect the state of society" are coming, ".
For Luli Pareti “we were already in roads to achieve a slower fashion, with higher quality garments and last longer.Pandemia has pushed all that ".Like Yanczewski, he said that "it is possible that the industry that remains the haute couture".As he appreciated: "People are going to invest in things that they will really be able to use".
Fernández Fini, meanwhile, hopes that in the streets a style similar to the “street-line” is appreciated in the streets.Formal clothing combinations with basic lines could be the ones that mark the trend."Later we will recover the costumes and shirts.On the other hand, I think that certain brands such as Zara will stay for an audience that can still buy such products, with some termination and a different style ”.
The chin is a separate paragraph."No one had thought that the moment of the moment was going to be.All this helps us to think that there has been and there will be another type of fashion and a new way of selling, ”said Fernández Fini.Finally, he released: “I'm not going to wait any longer to put on a suit that I like.I want people to look with their own imprint.On the other hand, I think it will begin to think more about neatness, have clean and healthy skin.Then, I want people to look with their own imprint ".
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