Hay negocios que, como el vino, ganan con los años y se convierten en auténticos referentes en lo suyo. Lo sabe bien Elena Bravo, la tercera generación, y la primera mujer, al frente de una de las mantequerías favoritas de los madrileños, el establecimiento casi centenario en el Barrio de Salamanca que comenzara su abuelo, Cruz Bravo, 90 años atrás, cuando desembarcó en la capital desde un pequeño pueblo de la provincia de Segovia donde había sido pastor.

«Cuando llegó a Madrid comenzó trabajando en tiendas de ultramarinos, sin más, hasta que ahorró lo suficiente para montar la suya propia, esta. Lo poco bueno que había entonces en la ciudad estaba aquí, en aquellos años ya vendía champán Pol Roger y Moët & Chandon», recuerda Elena.

Much has rained since then and its small family store, which retains the same mahogany wooden facade with which it was inaugurated in 1931, it is now a gourmet institution that is part of the gastronomic history of the capital and that invoices four million euros to theyear.An exclusive place where luxury tourism and many of the politicians, athletes, noble and great entrepreneurs in our country buy."I can't give you names," says Elena, always discreet with her clientele, when we ask who is the best customer and how good buyers are.«For me a great client is the one who enters the store and lets himself advise, regardless of what is going to spend.Everything here is of excellent quality, it is not a matter of price, we have things from five euros.And what we like is to talk to people, recommend products that we have tried and say how we prepare them ».

And although he insists that there is no profession that condition the expense -"it is about knowing howto organize a great party ».

For that, to invest in a good wine, your store is a reef, because if you presume your winery, with more than 4,000 references of the best wines.Spaniards and "a lot of Italian and French, which is currently selling a lot, its consumption has risen a barbarity," he says.And what advantage does it have over Spanish being very expensive? We ask."There is everything, it's about knowing how to choose and that is not easy, it is very complicated," he tells us alerting us about the danger of some online purchases."Normally a national wine that costs 35 euros is infinitely better than a French one of the same price, but if you know how to search you find things that are worth it."

And speaking of French wine, champagne better than cava?"Yes.For a cava to match, it also has to have almost the same price and if you take it from the beginning of the food, it does not feel bad, vice versa ».

His mancolrie is known for having historical vintages -Botellas since the 30s that start from 200 euros -, much Vega Sicily and for being specialists in large formats, with editions of up to 27 liters to which they give out of regular basis for events andprivate collections.At the moment one of them is the most expensive of the store, a 'unique' magnum by Vega Sicily of six liters of which only 11 bottles are made.They only have one, their price: 12,000 euros."And it is sold," says Elena.

Another way to buy and another to sell.«Everything has changed a lot since my grandfather's time;Before the neighbors came to fill their bottle of oil in bulk, now they have been looking for the most beautiful oil bottle and that better in their kitchen, ”he says.

From that time he remembers seeing his grandfather roasting coffee early in the morning, "then he took it out to the sidewalk to finish drying, as all the mantechers did then, and the entire Salamanca neighborhood smelled like coffee in the morning".He now does not put himself in the street as in the 40s, but they continue to roast him in the store as then, and the smell continues to be unmistakable.

The evolution towards a gourmet business came "almost naturally," explains Elena, who has been in the store since 14 years, when she helped her father at Christmas.«I am always here, I love it.The public is great, he likes to enter and share with you what a product has paid or how he has presented a dish, and I enjoy that very much ».

So much that now has climbed into the car of social networks, through which the future passes."We make some superdiverted direct ones in which I give some recipe with our products," she explains, "they are gourmet experiences and classes."Because being gourmand is also a matter of practice.«The palate learns a lot, but you have to train it.We have been trying good things, we have had that privilege.But the good always likes.Everything that comes out of here will be of quality, tasty, well elaborated and resulting as soon as you put two little little ones, with a homemade air ».

Not cooking products, but as homemade

There are many ways to succeed with Christmas dinner, although the most coveted goes through a homemade luxury menu that does not imply hours in the kitchen.And this is where Elena has a lot to say: in her store they offer a service to the letter, «from a dinner for two to one for 35. The objective is to facilitate the work, with trays prepared to do nothing.And give ideas.Opening a bottle and a lettuce bag is enough to make a resulton dish.We take that out of our experience and our products, which are very top, ”she explains.It is the formula of her table year after year."They always ask me the recipe, it seems that I have cooked it," she jokes.And how are you opening cans?With foodie tricks.

The first choose quality ingredients;Then, place so that it seems homemade.«We do it in the client dishes, which brings us to the store before.Then we serve at home and you just have to put it on the table, ”says Elena, who reveals another of the keys to success: introduce ideas into the dishes to make them homemade.For example?"Serve the pate on a gelatin cut into cubes that simulate ice, but one that we will have flavored with a little gin, red fruits or pepper grains that give color," she replies.

As main, an easy and economical confit of duck.«The trick is to accompany it from a parmentiere with truffle, which you get adding a splash of truffle oil to a simple potato puree.The truffle always triumphs, ”he says.

A Foodie Christmas Supper without putting on the apron

Elena Bravo has prepared a menu for the big Christmas meals that follows the four premises: easy, fast, luxury and homemade.The base are products of the highest quality, many of them preserves.This dinner, for eight people, costs 280 euros, without wine.

The salmon, with a knife.Because it is, a poorly served salmon loses grace.It should be cut fine and knife, like ham."The machine cut changes completely."

Asparagus, the chosen ones.Here you don't have to play it, because the difference between one good and any other is abysmal."Always from Navarra, although not even all the orchards are the same."

An octopus ... without 'Feira'.The 'gourmand' touch forgets the paprika.In her place, Elena adds an exotic point with a canena castle oil with Harissa sauce, a Moroccan flavor pairing.

Perdiz salad.Light and sophisticated, it is made with partridge of the Orellana restaurant, a classic with secret recipe.It is accompanied by Granada and toasted pine nuts in the oven, the crunchy touch.

Confit of duck, easy, easy.One of their star dishes and the one they sell most at Christmas.How to make it different?With an original Potato and Trufa parmentier.

Delicate flavors.On the outside a very light puff pastry;Inside, a delicious cream cheese.These balls are an explosion of flavor and a perfect snack.Impossible to eat only one.

Dessert to the Italian.Not all panetone are the same and the difference is abysmal.This, spongy and delicate, with cream and almond coverage, is a top to finish dinner.

The pate, very cold.You should always get rid of your mouth, never in bread or plate.You have to serve it on cold jelly."It's pretty and is incredibly well to lighten it."

Flower cheese and color.A cake, gouca with pesto;Pecorino with Trufa, Manchego with Boletus, Dehesa de los Llanos, named the best Spanish cheese in the world, and Tête de Moine, the Swiss in flower.

A ham?No, ham.The King of the table, an Iberian acorn ham plate five jotas always with a knife."If you don't cut it well, you load it," says Elena.Her cutters are professionals.

Special toast.To accompany the pate, for salmon, ham ... of seeds, with nuts or integrate them, these crispy rolls are a basic at a good table.

And the husband with ...

Elena Bravo offers three pairing options, two with a very economical price (including a French champagne) and another with an exclusive option.

Champagne Bouché Pere et Fils (€ 25.95)."El Champán Marida with any menu and today you can find French champagne at reasonable prices that are worth it in small producers labels. One is that of this maison, which only prepares with the grape produced by their vineyards."

Marqués de Riscal XR (€ 20.90)."A Rioja classic that is always perfect for any day and for great occasions. Its label is elegant but modern, and helps dress a table that must be colorful and colorful on those dates. It is ideal for legumes, birds, chops, chops,Mollets, stews, roasts or grilled meats. Versatile to the fullest. "

Vega Sicily Unique 2010 (€ 345).As its name, "a unique winery. This Gran Reserva de Vega Sicily is a palate award. Subtle but tasty, intense but elegant. We choose it for its upbringing, of at least 10 years between wood and bottle. It is a celebration inhimself, and perfect from the appetizer to the dessert. "