LOLA FERNANDEZ

If fashion is the message, Stella McCartney is the designer who has best understood that the revolution must go beyond stamping a message on a T-shirt. In fact, 60% of the garments in her spring 2020 collection are made from sustainable materials (econyl, regenerated nylon, recycled polyester), organic (linen, cotton) or recovered (cashmere). Even more: before summer she planned to launch her first biodegradable jeans, an initiative that the historic firm Lee has already had since last January.

Close the circle

This may be a small step for the gigantic textile industry, but it marks a milestone in the rapid reconversion that denim production is undergoing, undoubtedly at the forefront in terms of research and development of materials and processes. The leap denim brands have made since 2010, when the global Clean Clothes campaign's Deadly Jeans report denounced harmful techniques in jeans making, is huge.

From the revelation of the use of sandblasting, the jet of sand under pressure to produce the worn effect that caused lung diseases, we also learned that the production of a single cowboy requires 7,500 liters of water, that 70% of the rivers and lakes Asians are contaminated by chemical-laden wastewater from textiles or that two million workers still come into contact with dangerous potassium permanganate, another chemical used to wear down denim. For this reason, right now there is no denim brand that aspires to have any relevance that is not modifying its processes to accelerate the circular economy.

Spain, at the forefront

In a technological revival of its textile heritage, Valencia is home to two of the most successful companies in convincing major international brands with their innovations in denim finishing. One of them is Tejidos Royo, located in Alcudia de Crespins since 1903 and a star collaborator with Lee, Wrangler or Banana Republic thanks to its Dry Indigo technology.

How to Write a Personal Loan Agreement From Friends or Family: Asking friends and family members for money is ne... http://bit.ly/hRBRpp

— Credit Info Center Tue Dec 07 17:39:03 +0000 2010

“It allows practically 100% reduction in water consumption in the dyeing phase, consuming 65% less energy and using 89% less chemical products, eliminating spills and without the need to generate any type of waste that is harmful to the environment. environment”, explains José Royo, CEO of the company and member of the founding family. It is an innovative method of foam tinting that they developed hand in hand with Wrangler and the origin of their sustainable Indigood collection.

Also focused on the finishing of jeans, Jeanología has been researching since 1994 to bring ecological efficiency to the most important textile brands, from Levi's to Inditex. Its technologies are present in more than 60 countries and more than 35% of the 6,000 million jeans produced each year in the world benefit from its innovations. Its eco-washers reduce the water required to finish a pair of jeans from 70 liters to just one glass.

“Our purpose is to transform the industry. Make it more ethical, more efficient and sustainable. The main obstacle has not been technology but the mentality of the sector, very attached to lifelong practices”, explains Carmen Silla, director of marketing and member of the board of directors.

These technologies that they develop –based on the use of lasers, ozone and nanobubbles– not only save water, they also reduce chemicals by between 80 and 90%. In addition, thanks to its H2Zero process, the contaminated water from the washing machines is recycled and reused for at least one month. “There are no more excuses. Knowledge is available and whoever does not change their way of thinking and producing in a few years will be out of the industry”, says Silla. Jeanology's goal for 2025 is the total dehydration and detoxification of chemicals in the production of jeans. "Because the change in the denim sector can be a model for the rest of the textile industry," she says.

global mindset

One of the places where Jeanology's technology occupies an important place is in the PVH Denim Center of Tommy Hilfiger in Amsterdam, the laboratory from which the sustainable garments come out that, in the Tommy X Lewis collection this spring 2020, will be the 75%. In addition, the firm has joined the prestigious denim fashion circularity program designed by the British organization Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The Jeans Redesign initiative requires certain objectives for the garments of the brands that adhere to its program that observe durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. Companies such as Gap or H&M have also joined the campaign, proof of the importance of certifications and labels that confirm the ethical efforts of brands. In some cases, like Lee's, their commitment goes much further thanks to the Back to Nature line of biodegradable jeans, on sale since January.

The new 100% recyclable G-Star Raw collection has the seal of Cradle to Cradle, a leading institute in circular design that carries out the most rigorous certification process in the world. It confirms a production with high social standards, using only 100% safe and non-toxic materials, as well as the exclusive use of renewable energies and recycled water. Levi's was one of the first brands to sign up to the Better Cotton Initiative, the organization that ensures cotton comes from organic farms or recycled cotton suppliers. For this year they hope that all their production will be certified, that 80% use the Water Less technology that saves 96% of water and completely eliminates chemicals from the process to fulfill their commitment to the ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals).

According to the Global Denim Market Report prepared by Research and Markets, the denim market will experience growth of around 2.8% per year between 2019 and 2023. With an annual production of nearly 10,000 denim garments, it is vital that firms are commit to sustainable production out of social responsibility or, at least, out of pure commercial interest. In addition, 82% of millennial and Generation Z consumers understand that it is "very important" for companies to be responsible with the environment, according to another study by the consulting firm Euromonitor.