BridesMini-dresses, tailored pieces, tulle garments, embroidery and ultra-romantic pleats... Why opt for a single style when you can mix them all in the same collection?
By Garbiñe Continent
The contradiction between the sober and the excessive has emerged as one of the great trends of the season, also in the bridal field. When it seemed that the main battle was being fought between tradition and avant-garde design, the aesthetic debate has moved to another point in the spring/summer of 2021. Faced with the firms that bet on minimalism, functional designs and pieces designed for to continue wearing after the wedding, there are proposals that reinvent the romanticism of the 18th century, giving prominence to lace, tulle, pastel colors and empire necklines and adapting all these elements, at the same time, to contemporary shapes and silhouettes. Firms of a minimal nature have opted for austerity in their designs, such as Cortana, JW Anderson or Fendi, while those defenders of romantic aesthetics, such as Rodarte, Erdem or Cecilie Bahnsen fell for the charm of volumes, ruffles, feathers and glitters.
Other firms, such as Simone Rocha through her collaboration with MyTheresa, or the acclaimed Bernadette, opted for bridal collections that fused both concepts. Now, it is Self-Portrait that presents a bridal line that reflects its commitment to a hybrid between minimalist silhouettes and sophisticated details, thus composing a proposal adapted to the needs of the modern bride. After all, why stick with just one style when you can play – and win – with all the trends out there?
In a chronicle published in 2015, Suzy Menkes defined Self-Portrait's audience as young women who love nice clothes, but with attitude. That spectrum has encompassed, over the years, consumers of all kinds, from Kendall Jenner to Kate Middleton through a massive public that buys her pieces non-stop. The British firm has personality and knows how to maintain its essence while adapting to the needs of modern women. And that infallible formula, with which it has triumphed in sophisticated looks and dresses for events, is now transferred to the bridal field.
“From the beginning, I always wanted to create a brand that made women feel special. She wanted to be known as a thoughtful designer who cares about women and thinks about how they will feel wearing each design. Behind everything we do is the desire to uplift, empower and celebrate people with our pieces,” says Han Chong, founder and creative director of Self-Portrait. The aesthetics and nature of the designs led the firm, naturally and almost irremediably, to the bridal field. “As the brand grew, I realized that my consumer chose my pieces for joyful occasions, from parties to celebrations and, very often, weddings. So I began to take my aesthetics and the codes of my pieces to the bridal field. The idea of participating in such a special moment in their lives is something that really inspired me and continues to fuel my work”, adds the designer.
In her latest collection, Han Chong mixes the firm's characteristic preppy aesthetic with romantic nods, simple silhouettes and minimalist compositions that respond to the needs of today's bride. Thus, white minidresses are decorated with bows and embroidery, pleated skirts are mixed with tweed blazers, and draped tulle designs share the spotlight with ultra-romantic midi dresses.
“Over the last year, I've seen an incredible shift in the looks women are choosing for their big day and realized there was a palpable evolution in the pieces they were selecting: the idea of the traditional wedding dress is gone. Modern brides seek that feeling of independence and freedom in their wedding looks; they want to be true to themselves rather than feel pressured to project the image that is expected of them. This has inspired me a lot and, as a result, I have created pieces that are freer, less formal and more modern, which I hope will bring that spirit of calm and lightness”, concludes the creative director. The complete collection, baptized as Modern Bridal, is available on the official Self-Portrait website.
By Elisa Cordo
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